Some Constants

Some aspects of China have not changed much since my last trip. Streets in older neighborhoods still have the same gritty atmosphere and characters; toddling babies, elderly men spitting upon the asphalt, motorbikes swerving around pedestrians, delicious smells of fried food and steamed buns wafting from food stalls...

  

My aunt and uncle work at a university in Changsha and live in housing on campus. Their apartment is right next to one of the canteens, and one chilly morning we headed down to eat some hearty and simple food. The canteen is exactly as it was before, no frills, just cheap and good food. Why change what works, right?

They sell some of my favorite breakfast foods, including all manner of steamed breads, including mantou (steamed bread), baozi (steamed bun stuffed with meat or a sweet filling), and zhuanzhi (steamed dough twisted into a roll and seasoned with sugar or onions). I've tried making these before, but for some reason the homemade ones are never as soft and fluffy. 

Right across the way is the faculty canteen, where the food is supposedly a bit better than the student side. They were serving noodles that morning as well as dim sum.

There is no heat in the eating area, so everyone bundles up in their winter coats and drinks steaming soy milk to warm up. Though Starbucks and other cafes have opened up plenty of outlets, the coffee culture hasn't quite permeated the Chinese market to the same extent as it has in the U.S. People do enjoy drinking it from time to time, but coffee has not yet become a daily ritual for the average person. Hence why you most likely won't find it sold in canteens. Coffee drinks are relatively pricey, and probably are consumed mostly by young people out with friends or by young professionals. 

There are many large, new malls in Changsha that sell both upscale Chinese and western labels. However, we decided to go to Gao Qiao, an older wholesale district that offers many traditional foods and knickknacks. The area is packed with small stores, and we walked through an area with lots of dried goods such as dates, nuts, and goji berries. There is a lot of selection, so buyers go along and try bits of the product before haggling the price with the vendor. 

I think this is some kind of squid?

Below is a photo of dried wood ear mushrooms, the same as what I ate in Hong Kong.

And of course one thing that hasn't changed yet is the pleasure of eating a large meal surrounded with family. We went to visit relatives who own their own small restaurant, and they were kind enough to cook our whole family a big meal full of fresh ingredients. In the photo below are my two grandmothers!

Large meals out with family are always great raucous fun, with people pushing each other to eat more and drink more, followed by the inevitable fight for the bill at the end. I'm glad these social customs still remain.

Tomorrow I'm leaving for my last trip of the winter break, to Hanoi in Vietnam. I hope that it's not as cold there as it is in China, and when I'm back in six days I'll be sure to post photos and updates! 

City Full of Nooks and Crannies

On our second day in Yangon we headed to the bustling Bogjoke Aun Sang Market in the downtown area. This market is the main shopping destination for tourists, though not exclusively so - there were still plenty of locals. Prices tend to be higher in the businesses that line the perimeter of the market, and these shops also appear to cater more to tourists and sell knick knacks and souvenirs. You have to wander in to get to the good stuff! However, as noted in my last post, most shopkeepers were very friendly and don't aggressively hawk their wares. 

A big indoor section of the market sold gold and jewelry. I don't have any skills in distinguishing good quality gems and metals from fakes, so I mostly just walked through this area without really looking closely. 

We came to an inner area with tightly-spaced shops that sold lots of fabrics. Many of the shops have tailors that they know who will create a longyi (the long skirt) for you out of a fabric that you choose. The fabrics come in a dizzying array of colors, patterns, and material. I ended up buying a hand-sewn bright green longyi with flowers along the border for about $15 USD, plus a tailoring fee of $5. There are many cheaper options; you can buy fabric for less than $5, but in this case I was willing to spend more for the quality. 

It amazed me how many nooks and crannies are taken over by tiny businesses. In the photo below, you see people eating snacks and drinking tea at a myriad of street side makeshift shops. Teashops are very popular in Myanmar, whether they are these ones out in the open with plastic chairs and tables, or nicer restaurant styles. The tea is very similar to teh in Singapore, which is brewed black tea with lots of condensed milk - a highly sweet and rich drink.

Many of these vendors are mobile, one-man businesses, as seen below. I think the guy was selling some sort of noodles. They probably are officially required to have some sort of permit, but I'm not sure how closely regulations are enforced.

On the second floor of one of the buildings is a fascinated array of little service shops, such as tailors and mechanics of various types. Most dealt with clothing. It was a mini-economy up there, with everything crammed up side by side, and some businesses catering to other businesses in the same space. We even wandered across another little tea shop upstairs with room for exactly four customers to sit.

The side streets along the downtown area were also very crammed - people using space efficiently!

And there were lots of street side restaurants, even near hectic main thoroughfares. All the food looked and smelled delicious but we often did not know what things were! Also, food sanitation is a concern as well. Though we didn't eat anything at these little vendors we all ended up with food poisoning in the end!  

Outside of the busyness of the city, there are a few parks and lakes where you can enjoy some peace. We went to Kandawgi Lake (below) and Inya Lake (not to be confused with Inle Lake, which is located in northern Myanmar. Often times we would see lots of couples hanging out by the lake or taking long strolls. Sometimes young people also bring along a guitar and start strumming along and singing in a group. It's a really nice atmosphere and also provides some pretty scenic views, especially near sunset. 

It's good to know that there is still lots of natural beauty in such a large city. Not all of it is well kept and maintained, though I hope these patches continue to exist, even as Myanmar develops economically in the future. 

Small Town Xiangyin

In the past few days I have flown from Shenzhen to a province in China called Hunan. It is still in the southern region but located further away from the coast. I am staying with my grandparents (on my dad’s side). They live in a quiet little town called Xiangyin, about an hour away from the nearest large city, Changsha.

Xiangyin definitely differs from the modern Shenzhen in many ways. Though it is a bustling, growing town, it is still in a fledgling developmental state. Most people do not own cars so buses, motorcycles, bikes, pedestrians, and wagons full of fresh produce crowd the streets.


Unlike Shenzhen, there are no Walmarts, Sam’s Clubs, McDonalds, or Starbucks. There are about two large supermarkets but they are located far from my grandparents’ apartment so we have to ride the bus. Tiny little shops and street vendors dot the narrow streets, each selling goods such as clothes and shoes or providing services such as hair-styling.

Most people buy their daily groceries from large outdoor markets. The one market we visit each morning is much more intense than the one I saw in Shenzhen. Besides the standard fresh-picked vegetables, there are also live frogs, flopping fish, and freshly-butchered beef.



Life is much simpler here. Each day we wake early, around six or seven, and after a breakfast of noodles, steamed buns, or porridge, my grandfather and I hit the markets to buy the fresh produce for lunch and dinner. People here really emphasize freshness. They buy ingredients just a few hours before the meal. After a lunch of fish, vegetables, and white rice, my grandparents take a nap or do chores. Sometimes if I’m tired enough I’ll sleep for an hour or two.

In the afternoon I usually struggle through reading the Chinese version of Harry Potter or learn some calligraphy from my grandfather. Dinner is eaten early, around five or six. We finish up leftovers from lunch and may cook up some more fresh produce.

Around six, my grandparents watch the nightly news. I usually stick around, trying to understand as much of the news as possible. Sometimes we will take a short walk around the neighborhood. Then I call home or write up something for the blog. At nine, it’s lights out for the grandparents. I usually stay up for a few hours more, surfing the web and eating interesting Chinese snacks.

Life here can be agonizingly slow, but it is also a good break from the fast-paced, cutthroat outside world.

Malls and Markets: The Modern and the Old

It is really interesting to compare these opposing elements in Chinese society. Shenzhen on the whole is a pretty modern city but it does contain aspects of traditional culture and habits.

The Modern

I decided to visit this really cheap shopping district in Shenzhen. It is located pretty far from my uncle’s neighborhood so my grandmother and I had to ride the subway.

The subway system in Shenzhen is very modern and pretty high tech. I bought a token from a machine and swiped it at the gate to get into the system. Since my grandmother is a senior citizen, she was able to ride for free. There is basically one main subway line so it was very easy to navigate. At the subway stop, flat screen TVs display the minutes until the arrival of the next train. Announcements are made in Mandarin, Cantonese, and English. The trains are extremely clean and there is no eating or drinking allowed. It took about fifteen minutes to travel seven stops. I dropped my token into the slot and was able to leave the system.

The Modern

We first got off at an earlier stop to meet my friend Kiki for lunch. Since she was on her lunch break from school, we decided to grab some fast food at a Japanese ramen place. We ordered noodles and sushi. Here is my grandmother with her seafood noodles!

Then we explored the mall complex above this stop. All the stores were extremely expensive and fancy, with brands such as Louie Vuitton, Coach, Fendi, among others. Most of the shops were western brands. There was also an ice rink and a movie theater. Though I was tempted to make purchases, I knew this brand-name items are probably cheaper in the states.

The Old

Finally we arrived at the cheap shopping district. It directly contrasted with the shiny new mall we had just seen. Little shops dotted crowded aisles. Each shop was a one-room-cubicle that had a miscellaneous assortment of clothing and a tiny curtain in the corner to act as a fitting room. The prices were definitely low – most articles of clothing were around 39 Yuan, or 6 dollars. There were also many opportunities to bargain, though I sadly lack expertise in this area.

*A few notes about salespeople in China * - They are extremely helpful, to the point of being suffocating. As soon as you walk in they will greet you and then follow you around as you look at the products. They will make suggestions, ask questions, encourage you to try on clothing, give advice, provide compliments and subtly brush through clothing to show-off their wares. Sometimes they will just look at you as you sort through items. This made me slightly uncomfortable as it is very different from the U.S. where you can just tell a salesperson that “I am just looking” and they will usually leave you alone. I definitely prefer just casually browsing and not being pressured. However, I know this is just the culture here.

The Modern

Beautiful apartment buildings and condos across from my uncle’s neighborhood. They have just been constructed and are empty at the moment. I’m pretty sure they will be filled in no time.

The Old

This morning we walked to a market to buy some produce and some steamed buns for breakfast. Farmers that are probably from just outside the city come here every morning by the roadside to sell their products. They are only allowed to be there until nine in the morning because officials are concerned with the aesthetics of the city. Markets are rather crowded, dirty, and smelly.

People were selling vegetables such as eggplants, cabbage, carrots, onions, and bok choy. There were also fruits, fresh meat, street food and eggs. Usually you can find the freshest and cheapest food here.

The Modern

Cars! Shenzhen on average has a wealthier population, at least in the district that we are in. Most of the cars are western brands such as Audi, Buick, Ford, and Mercedes-Benz. They are all very shiny and new. Even I, with extremely little knowledge about cars, could tell that the cars were expensive.