Around Town

I've left Singapore with a year full of memories of my favorite places. I thought I'd share some of the highlights with you!

I love the Tanjong Pagar area because it's such a stunning visual of the mix of the old and the new. There are low-rise, colorful shophouses, framed in the back by giant modern housing estates. Most of the shophouses have now been renovated and exist as hipster cafes, restaurants, and bars, but they still retain some of their historic charm. 

Chinatown is also a unique neighborhood in Singapore. It's a bit strange to think of the existence of a "Chinatown" in a Chinese-majority country, but I suppose it does have its historic groundings as well. Now though, it's not so much residential as commercial and tourist-centered. There are lots of shops and restaurants, and some pretty affordable hostels as well for backpackers. The area gets pretty festive around some of the Chinese holidays like Mid-Autumn Festival. 

Of course, the central business district and Marina Bay area will always be one of my favorite spots. I love cities, and these brilliantly lit up skyscrapers and the still water with their wavering reflections has a certain romantic charm for me. There is a sense of possibility, and the awe of the human potential. In Singapore, the beauty is magnified by the fact that at night the area is almost peaceful in its emptiness and security. You will find it difficult to locate a safer downtown area anywhere in the world. At night, there is such a pleasant solicitude found in walking around the empty avenues. 

Two prominent features of the Singaporean landscape are interesting architecture and shopping malls. The Star Vista, located at Buona Vista MRT, showcases both of these quite proudly. It's an upscale mall, quite close to where I used to live, so I frequented it quite often. At the top of the mall is a massive concert hall and venue for a massive Christian church to hold services. I've stared at this below scene many times as I've waited for the bus to take me home.

And then there's Sentosa Beach, with the pale yellow sands and warm shallow water, probably what a lot of people imagine when you tell them that Singapore is an island in Southeast Asia. Sentosa is just a little stretch of the coastline at the southern tip of the island, but it's a fun place to go if you have a free weekend and want to relax. However, be careful - the sun can be relentlessly hot and there isn't too much shade on the beach.

These are just some of the distinctive places that I will miss about Singapore! There aren't many other places in the world that manage to combine all these unique areas into one city, and where you can hop from beach to financial district in twenty minutes. Sometimes the vibe surrounding these places can feel a bit manufactured, but I do admire the way the island has been designed to maximize the tiny amount of land that Singapore has to work with. It's a true wonder in many ways!

The Foodie Nation

I've almost lived in Singapore for a year at this point, and I now understand how it is known as the foodie capital of the world. There are so many beloved, iconic dishes; diverse cuisines represented; and delicious foods available from the humblest hawker centre to fine dining establishments.

The most famous dish is chili crab - an enormous crab cooked in thick sweet and spicy gravy. It's such a good dish for sharing, but be prepared with lots of napkins! There are quite a number of popular chili crab restaurants in Singapore, especially along the East Coast.  

One of my personal favorite dishes can be found in many food courts and hawker centres. It is called Yong Tau Foo, and it's quite a healthy option to have for a meal. Yong Tau Foo is a bowl of vegetables, various proteins, and sometimes noodles, all boiled in a light and savoury broth. You have the option of picking out all the items you want in your soup, and will be charged per item. I usually like to include seaweed, greens, and eggs. Everything tastes wonderful when dipped into the special chili sauces you can get on the side.

The bakeries here sell pretty ingenious and creative items. My favorite bakery is called Breadtalk. The breads here are baked with lots of milk and butter, with interesting flavors and ingredients. Some of their selections are below: steamed pumpkin cake, tuna stuffed bun, and pork floss roll. 

Seafood food is quite abundant, as you can imagine it would be for an island nation, and can be seasoned with lots of strong and spicy ingredients, like this BBQ stingray covered with a thick chili sauce, cooked on a banana leaf, and eaten with lime juice.

A hearty bowl of porridge is a comfort food for many Singaporeans. It's a thick and creamy rice, mixed in with various toppings such as chopped century egg, slices of pork, green onion and chili. You can easily find porridge stalls at most hawker centers for around $3 a bowl. Portions tend to be generous, making for a filling breakfast or supper. There are some pretty good stalls at the Maxwell Hawker Centre.

As a country with a significant Indian population, you can expect to find pretty delicious Indian food here. Little India is an obvious place to find lots of good and cheap restaurants and coffee shops, but there usually will be an Indian stall at most large food courts and hawker centres, serving everything from naan bread to curries and biryani dishes. 

One tradition I really enjoy is the traditional breakfast at the local coffeeshop or kopitiam. These small neighborhood eateries serve an interesting mix of eastern and western breakfast foods, including soft boiled eggs with soy sauce, toast with kaya spread, and sometimes noodle or curry dishes. The concept of the coffeeshop has become commercialized, so now there are chains of these shops, removed from the neighborhood and put into modern spaces like shopping malls.

Being a very westernized Asian country, Singapore also offers many European and American-type restaurants and cafes. They tend to be a bit fancier and more expensive. For example, eggs benedict for brunch!

Lastly, there are also many American chains that can be found in Singapore, sometimes offering their own unique twist on the usual offerings! Starbucks sold moon cakes during the mid-Autumn festival. They weren't bad! There are also various green tea type drinks. 

As you can see, Singapore has a very unique and diverse food scene. I'll miss it a lot, and I hope you will have a chance to experience it someday!

Reflections

Singapore has a strange combination. It's not a very open society, meaning freedom of speech and of the press are restricted, and the government is quite controlling. The political scene is not very pluralistic, as the same party has ruled since the founding of the country. However, Singapore is also one of the least corrupt countries in the world. It is very wealthy, highly developed, and has a great infrastructure. Almost all citizens enjoy a high standard of living. These characteristics don't often come together.

People describe the government as having a master plan. Since the 1960s, the government has tried to "engineer" society. It has, for the most part, been very successful. Not many other countries have leaped from third world to first world status in a few decades - and Singapore is not only "first world," but its living conditions are among the best. Unemployment is at a low 2%, nearly all residents have affordable housing, and business, especially foreign business, is thriving. Despite the population density, the city is immaculately clean, there are nice parks, and pollution levels are low. Crime rates are extremely low.

Of course, a few factors have been in Singapore's favor. The government only had to plan out a country the size of a large city, rather than a huge landmass. Smaller means easier to keep tabs on and control. Also, since Singapore had been under British control, English became the official language, and that always is helpful in terms of business development and innovation.

I think of the government as authoritarian but benevolent. It has a lot of power, but this hasn't corrupted the leaders. The leaders want to improve the country and satisfy the citizens. They realize that this is the best way to perpetuate their power. The plan has worked - you can hear people now and then mumbling and grumbling about the power of the party, but no one ever does anything. Everyone is too content with their lives to risk disrupting the equilibrium. If you have housing, a stable job, and good schools for your kids, there isn't much incentive to try to change the political scene. How would a change of government benefit you?

Easy

That's the most common adjective people have used to describe life in Singapore. Convenient, safe, comfortable, and easy.

It's true - I believe that Singapore is the most "livable" city in Asia. Some call it "Asia lite." This is the place to start if you've never traveled in this part of the world before, and want to ease into the culture shock. This is the place for businesses to move when they want to expand into the region, because infrastructure and set regulations. This is the place expats want to work because of the top rated schools and English-speaking population. This is the place you let your daughter take on her first internship away from home, because of the low crime rates (right, mom and dad?)

The public transportation could not be better. The metro system, buses, and taxis can take you anywhere you need to go. They are clean and run like clockwork. Taxis are strictly regulated, and no driver will try to rip you off. I don't believe it is possible to really get lost in Singapore - all you have to do is find the nearest passerby, who is certain to speak at least basic English, and ask them where the nearest taxi stand/bus stand/MRT stop is.

Sure, the weather could be improved, but most of the time I don't even realize it is so hot and humid. Every building, taxi, bus, subway, home, is air-conditioned, and many places are connected through underground malls or pathways. It is easy to get around without ever being outdoors for more than a few minutes.

It is easy to "experience" manageable bits of culture. Want to see what India is like? Just go down two MRT stops to Little India, where there are streets crammed full of small restaurants cooking fresh naan and curry, stands with incense and religious offerings, vendors selling tropical fruits, and boutiques and shops selling knick knacks and cloths of all sorts. There's also a Chinatown, with its own Chinese Heritage Center. The Arab District is also nearby, with mosques and delicious Middle-Eastern cuisine in all price categories. Everything is within easy reach.

Food is convenient here. There is everything from 5-star restaurants to vendors in hawker stands selling 90-cent roti prata and $1 bowls of beancurd. Every cuisine is within easy access - Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, Korean, Japanese, Indian, Malay, Indonesian, Middle-Eastern, French, Italian, Australian, American fast food, you name it.

And the shopping! I have never seen so many designer brands in one place. First of all, Singapore has a mall on every street, each bigger and newer than the previous one. There are stores that you would find in the states, such as Forever 21 and Guess, and then there are high end Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Prada, etc. If you have the money, this city is the shopper's paradise.

It's clean and safe. Singapore is the one place in Asia where I am not afraid to use a public restroom, because most likely it will be impeccably clean. It is also a place where I am not afraid to walk around by myself. People are so rule-abiding that they will not cross the street when the "walk" sign is not green, even if there are no cars on the road. Residents take their "queues" or lines very seriously - never try to cut in line! Rules and regulations run the city - no durians allowed on public transportation, for example.

Travel to nearby countries is cheap and fast. It is manageable to hop over to Vietnam, Malaysia, or Thailand for a weekend for under $200 (or even $100 if you snag a good deal). So if you get bored of the city state, you can quickly pop out for a small adventure.

But Singapore is also a place of transit for many expatriates. Many people I have talked to do not plan on staying here for more than a few years. Why is this, if the city is so comfortable? Maybe it gets boring after a few months. The community is also very small, and maybe it a little too small once you realize that everyone you know also knows each other in various ways. Or maybe people just get used to the comforts and start to take them for granted. After all, everything is relative.

I like this place a lot, after six weeks. Right now, I can see myself living here. But who knows what will happen in the future, and how my perspective will change?

Cultural Melting Pot

Singapore is the most culturally and ethnically diverse place I've ever been to (besides Yale, maybe!).

Signs are written in multiple languages, usually including at least English, Chinese, Malay, and Tamil, the four official languages of the country. On the streets, I hear people chattering in a mixture of Singlish and Chinese, and once I even caught a snippet of Spanish! Residents here are from various ethnic backgrounds - there are Chinese, Indian, Malay, Indonesian, Europeans, Africans.

It's so rare to find myself in a place where no one will stare at anyone else because they are "different." At the same time, the strange thing is mostly everyone understands English! It's such a surreal experience for me. In China last year, I was used to navigating conversations with people on the street with my less than perfect Chinese. Here, it is a fact that most individuals understand basic English, and no one seems to find that unusual at all. Because of this, Singapore is a great "starter" country for foreigners looking to live in or travel to Asia.

I've found that people will either speak to me in Chinese (because they assume I'm a Chinese Singaporean) or English (if they can tell I'm not from around here). When a person starts speaking Chinese with me, I will automatically respond in Chinese without realizing the change at all. Maybe I'm getting use to the fluent changes of language and dialects from being around lots of people on the subways and buses.

Of course, this cultural diversity translates into food as well. Even in the small section of the city I live in, one can find authentic Thai, Japanese, Vietnamese, Indian, Malay, Indonesian, Middle-Eastern, various regional cuisines of China, Korean, as well as many McDonald's and Starbucks. Many of these ethnic restaurants have some sort of Singaporean slant that makes them special.

The other day, we ventured out into the Geyland District to try a specialty - frog! The neighborhood was a little sketchy and is known as Singapore's red light district, but we had to come for the unpretentious yet delicious food.

We got a big pot of stewed frog to share, which was actually quite good. It tasted like a cross between chicken and fish.

Then we headed to a roadside fruit stand to try some exotic tropical fruits, such as the infamous durian. It did taste just as bad as it smelled, and had to gooey, weird texture. For those of you who aren't familiar with this stinky fruit, it is banned on buses and the subway in Singapore because of the distinct pungent smell.

I forgot what this fruit is called, but it looked and tasted like a giant lychee!

I have yet to explore the ethnic enclaves of Singapore: there is a Little India, a Chinatown, and an Arab Quarter. Singapore provides a sampling of Asia, but it's only the starter course that stimulates the appetite for travel. I can't wait to actually visit some countries myself.

A Touristy Day

Sunday was a lot of fun, and filled with touristy activities. In the morning we explored the Botanic Gardens, which is a pretty famous Singapore landmark. It is a lush, tropical environment, in contrast with the urban buildings and asphalt right across the street. We took a bus from right outside our apartment and within half an hour arrived in this paradise...

The main attraction of the Gardens is the Orchid Garden. There are many rare breeds and hybrids of the orchid flower. Many new varieties are bred and dedicated to various heads of state. There was one dedicated to Laura Bush! It wasn't very pretty though, so I didn't take a picture of it. Others, however, were absolutely gorgeous.

I love the colors of this flower below! I got to try out the macro settings on my camera, which aren't too shabby.

I took so many photos because I know my mom will appreciate them! She loves flowers, and if she ever visits Singapore she should come to this place.

Unfortunately it was so hot and humid that we couldn't stay in the Gardens for too long. For lunch we went to this restaurant in one of the malls called Bugis Junction. I got this set, in which I got a bowl full of steaming soup and lots of little ingredients to throw into it. The waitress told me to first put in the eggs and the fish so they would cook properly. Other ingredients included noodles, preserved vegetables, and mushrooms.

At nighttime we went to the Marina Bay Sands, which is a combination of resort, hotel, casino, shops, and a museum. There are three enormous towers, 55 stories high, with a ship straddled on top. Here's a view from below...

And inside the lobby...

We got to go onto the rooftop infinity swimming pool. The views were absolutely breathtaking. The pool is on top of the boat balanced on top of the 3 towers. It overlooks the entire cityscape.

The water was perfectly cool and refreshing because the day was so hot and humid.

Then we found out that there was a nice changing room with a sauna, steamroom, and hot tub that overlooked the other side of the city! The room was completely empty as well, so it felt like a private suite. There was a nice view as well.

A great relaxing day before the work week begins! It's been a great first week here in Singapore, and I'm excited for the next two months. On Friday, we leave for Bangkok for the weekend, so I'm sure we will have lots of exciting adventures there! To be continued...

Four Views of Singapore from One Street Corner

Singapore has incredible architecture. I haven't seen one plain or boring building. Everything is either in the old-fashioned colonial style, the modern sleek skyscraper style, or some crazy feat of artistry that defies gravity. I noticed that when walking back from work yesterday, at the intersection by the City Hall MRT, there were four different styles of building. They could have been located in completely different sections of the city!

One corner of the street was this cute complex of shops and restaurants in a Spanish-style (?). There are palm trees lining the walk.

Then turn 90 degrees, and suddenly you are faced with a high-rise modern hotel.

Another quarter turn and you see one of Singapore's many famous malls, Raffles City.

Finally, on the last corner is the Raffles Hotel Arcade, which is in the British colonial style.

What these places have in common is the consumerism, despite the various facades. But just down the street is the Parliament building as well as a stunning white cathedral. Singapore has many faces.

Busy Days, Busy Nights

It's been a busy two days, with me starting work and getting use to the 9-6 schedule. I haven't gotten over jetlag yet, so for the past two mornings I have woken up around 5 or 6. I get dressed for work and make some breakfast. In order to save a little money, we bought some bread, oatmeal, and yogurt to stock our fridge. I don't think we really saved any money though. Food prices are pretty high because everything is imported into Singapore.

My workplace is located a bit far from where I live. I either take the subway or the bus, and both ways take about 30 minutes. The transportation systems are pretty efficient here, even during rush hour. The office where I am interning is located high up in this modern building in a neighborhood filled with malls and offices. Upon reaching work, I usually settle into my station after making some coffee. We're on the 23rd floor, and my desk actually is against a window which showcases a beautiful view of the Singapore skyline. Below is the building (right side tower).

At noon we break for lunch, though there isn't a set lunch time. There are numerous eateries in the neighborhood, and today we wandered into an underground mall with a food hall. Various eateries and food stands lined the air-conditioned pathways. I saw everything from fried shitaki mushrooms on a stick, fish ball noodles, and kaya toast, to shaved ice and greek yogurt.

Here's a "tornado potato," which are thick potato chips on a stick.

Fried chicken cheese balls on a stick...

"Street sausage," which seems to be covered with french fry bits...

And lots of other street food! I promise not everything is fried and on a stick, but it seems to be all I've taken pictures of!

Then it's back to work! At six the office begins to empty out and I head back to the apartment. I really love our street. It has a quaint, historic feel, shops and restaurants take up the first floor, and flats are on the second and third.

After everyone reconvenes, we decide upon a place to eat dinner. By the time we pick at place, meander to the location, and eat, usually it's around 8 or 9. We've discovered a few good places around the area and we are going to try new restaurants everyday. Yesterday, after dinner we took a walk to the beautiful riverside, where we enjoyed the warm breeze and the far-off echoes of an orchestra concert playing across the water in the Marina Bay Sands. It was after 10 when we made it back, and being so exhausted from the jetlag, I did a little research and planning for our time here, then showered and went to straight to bed.

I have no idea when I will have time to do laundry, cook, or even shop! I realized that we still need to buy basics such as salt before we can do any real cooking. But we are actually pretty spoiled, as I learned that we have maids that will be coming in once a week to clean, change sheets, and even wash the dishes. Our weekends are completely booked with fun activities and international travel. I'm definitely still running on energy from the excitement of being in an amazing place and doing new things.

Pre-Departure Thoughts

Hey everyone,

I leave for Singapore in less than two days! These past few days have been so stressful, with packing, paperwork, and last minute details to sort out. I'm flying out on Thursday from Richmond to JFK, and from there I'm taking Singapore Airlines to the Changi Airport in Singapore. It is a 22-hour flight with a stopover in Frankfurt, Germany, so I'll need lots of entertainment. If anyone has suggestions for music, books, or magazines, please let me know!

During the past few days I have learned so much about Singapore, its culture and history. It is an incredible place with a unique past. The city-state was once a British colony, and it gained independence in 1965, breaking away from Malaysia. It is one of the most developed post-colonial societies - some attribute this to the rather strict control the government has over the people. From the articles I have read, there are two sides to the story.

Singapore is an economic miracle. Think about it - the tiny city has basically no natural resources. It even relies on neighboring Malaysia for its daily water supply. It is surrounded by nations with different political, religious, and cultural environments. In a speech to Columbia University (found here), the Minister of Home Affairs Mr. Shanmugam describes Singapore's geopolitical situation by using an analogy with the United States. He states,

"Assume the US is shrunk to the size of Connecticut, and with a population of about 20 million; (2) To the North, replace benign Canada with Russia; and (3) To the South, replace Mexico with China. (4) And assume you have to get water everyday from Russia."

Singapore has many bragging rights; it is one of the largest financial hubs in the world, its citizens enjoy one of the highest standards of living in the world, its students excel in math and science, it is clean and safe. There is low unemployment. Everything is efficient and technologically advanced. There is social stability, despite the diverse ethnic groups and languages that make up the national identity. These achievements occurred in the past four decades against all expectations.

In order to raise society to such a standard, the government had to make sacrifices at the individual level. The rule of law is severe - selling chewing gum, littering, and spitting are all outlawed. Narcotics offenses are punishable by the death penalty. The freedom of the press is restricted. The People's Action Party (PAP) has been in control since the founding of the country, though some argue that this is due to the successes of the party rather than manipulation or corruption.

I wonder if there always exists a tension between societal good and individual freedom. It's true that with less checks and balances in the Singapore model, the government can take action in a speedier fashion and avoid the gridlock that so often plagues the American system. I agree that Singapore may not be at its current economic point had it been a liberal democracy from the beginning. Singaporean officials argue that we cannot hope to apply the same liberal western standards to every developing society. China is attempting to follow Singapore with its free economy/closed political system.

Assume, for the time being, that societal well-being and individual rights are at odds. The second point: I suppose the question should not be, "Is it okay for a country to sacrifice personal freedoms for the sake of economic well-being?" but, "Are the citizens of the country willing to sacrifice certain rights in return for a higher standard of living?" Therefore, what is right is not what we as Americans think the Singaporeans should do, but what the Singaporeans (who are highly-educated and knowledgeable about the rest of the world) think is right for their country. Are they happy enough with their great healthcare, low crime rate, clean streets, successful education system, to grant the government a greater degree of control over their lives?

I hope that throughout the next nine weeks, as I work, eat, shop and explore Singapore, I will be able to gain some insight into these questions. On a lighter note, I will be traveling on the weekends to nearby countries with my fellow Bulldogs. We are tentatively going to Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia, and Hong Kong. I'm probably going to be posting at least 3 times a week, so be sure to check back often!

Exciting News

So, there will definitely be a continuation of this blog because...

This summer I'm heading to Singapore!

I received an offer for an internship with the American Chamber of Commerce. It is a 9-week position from June 5th to August 6th. Here's the description of the internship:

The Yale intern, depending on his/her background and career interests, would likely support the AmCham team in one of two key areas - either on events mangement (helping staff produce the Chamber's briefings, networking events, and other activities) or on the government relations/policy side, assisting staff with liaison work with AmCham's industry committees, the US/Singaporean governments, and putting together regional trade missions that AmCham leads. In addition to these areas, the intern would also assist with various administrative responsibilities in support of the Chamber's activities, and might also work with staff across departments, depending on the needs of the organization.

From what I've heard, Singapore is an amazing city - it's full of energy, culture, and diversity, and yet is orderly, clean, and safe. There will also be opportunities to travel to and explore nearby countries such as Malaysia and Thailand. I am so grateful for this opportunity and I definitely will be blogging about the whole experience, so stick with me!

The above image is from Asia News.